GALATA DOCK'S SHANTIES, THEATERS AND TAVERNS
AHMED RASİM DESCRIBES THE GALATA DOCK
IN "CITY LETTERS" HE WROTE FOR THE MALUMAT GAZETTE,
"THE DOCKS PROVIDED A NICE NEW VIEW."
"BUT THE SHANTIES BUILT ALONG IT ARE VERY INAPPROPRIATE."
[Nesrin] So, what's your plan for today, huh?
-I'm not sure. -[Nesrin] Zehra.
It's been a week.
You're gonna have to return to school at some point.
You haven't left the house.
But I have to go to work now.
Breakfast is on the table when you want it.
Okay?
Get up.
ISTANBUL ENCYCLOPEDIA
[click]
So let me ask you once more.
I'm sure of it, boss.
I have no idea how I could be any more sure about something.
And if I ever was any more sure about something, I can't remember.
It's your business.
Can I take a picture of you?
Pardon me?
Just for the memories.
I'll send it when once I print it.
Huh? So, I want a serious look. One befitting the chief physician.
[shutter clicks]
NO ENTRY
[gentle music playing]
[gentle music continues]
Your father's okay?
He's been discharged.
That's wonderful.
Thanks.
My condolences.
I'm so sorry.
Thank you.
The assignments and notes for class are all here,
all the materials from all the lectures I attended.
So, you, uh, didn't miss anything from this week.
I was just really worried about you.
Istanbul Encyclopedia only goes up through G.
So we're just supposed to each pick a letter from the alphabet
and make something of it.
So have you… have you got your something?
No.
If Reşad Ekrem Koçu were here today,
what do you think he would write about you?
Tell me who you are.
[introspective music playing]
[Harun] When my mom got pregnant with me,
we weren't well off, financially, so they considered abortion.
They could either have the abortion, or just stop talking about it altogether.
They needed to decide.
As time passed, my mother felt pressure to make a choice.
She decided to have the abortion.
That night she has a dream.
She's in a field, and in the distance, there's a circle of fire.
She starts walking towards it.
The heat's burning her, she's really hurt, but she keeps on.
She moves to it.
She finds a little baby waiting for her patiently there,
in the center of the circle.
She jumps in without hesitation.
Grabs the baby, and pulls it out of the fire.
She wakes up and says she won't do it.
She's keeping the baby.
The day comes, and they call a midwife.
I'm a little tough.
I come out quickly, but I'm not breathing properly.
My face has turned blue.
I'm not breathing, I'm just…
dead, I've been born dead.
So of course, the midwife is going to speak to her.
But then I start peeing.
I'm suddenly breathing, I'm alive.
Returned to life through piss.
I don't know.
My relationship with loss
began at the beginning of my life.
[gulps]
Is that why I live like I'm losing?
Is that why I'm impulsive and whimsical?
'Cause I know any moment could be the last?
But I'm positive that I am in the world
to conquer my fear.
I am becoming certain that the fear has nothing to do with how I live my life.
But that my mind is still learning to leave the fear behind.
I'm sorry, this is expired. You've gotta give me a new one.
Yes, of course I will.
Are you a student or what?
I am.
Good, because we're really busy every weekend.
We've got coverage on the weekdays, but…
You'll work full shifts weekends. 550 a day.
Five-fifty?
Don't worry, the customers tip well.
You can start tomorrow, okay?
Mm. I don't have a choice anyway.
So?
Do you want the job?
I want the job. Of course.
Well, congratulations.
Are you cold? You didn't take off your beanie.
Oh, that's my style. [chuckles]
[manager] Alright then.
Figure out your ID problem. We'll be waiting.
So tell me.
This is for what, again?
[Zehra] My ID.
Well for an ID, it's gonna need to be a biometric photo,
so, you aren't ready yet.
I want it this way.
Yeah, come on, you joking?
No, seriously.
Seriously?
Please.
If this is just some hidden camera prank, I'm not into it.
Like, I'm not into being on the Internet, ya know? [chuckles]
It's not, why?
-You said it's for an ID? -Of course.
You'll put this photo on state documents, but you can't do it with the beanie.
How come, though?
Sweetie, it's the state.
Um, a headscarf is one thing, okay?
The state accepts one of those on your head.
You've gotta either use that or nothing. A beanie doesn't count.
Isn't it whether my whole face can be seen?
They're not going to accept it.
I'm telling you, save your breath, miss. You'll have to get another one taken.
You're sure about that?
[gentle music playing]
[Louis in Spanish] The weather is good.
-[Nesrin in French] Very, very clean. -Yes.
[Nesrin laughs]
[gasps and laughs]
-Oh, my God. -[laughs]
-[in French] A tiger. [growls] -A tiger.
I wanna have another photo taken.
-But is something wrong with it? -[Zehra] No.
-Let me have a peek, I might-- -Nothing's wrong.
Look, whatever is wrong you can tell me.
Photoshop's very good, we can do whatever you need me to.
I'd like another photograph. Can you take another one?
Okay,
Go in there and when you're ready, just ring the bell.
[laughs]
Ah, come on now, come on.
What?
What is your deal?
[Zehra] Why?
I wanna know what you're up to. What are you doing?
You started wearing the scarf five minutes ago?
Yeah, five minutes ago, and I might be stopping later today too.
What's it to you?
-Can you just take my photograph, please? -Just tell me if this is your thing.
I'm about to be in trouble, if so.
They put our names at the bottom of the photos.
You can cut your name out for all I care.
Can you please take the photo now?
Biometric.
Alright.
[camera shutter clicks]
[screen chimes]
COUNTY REGISTRY OFFICE
-104? -104.
[man] Okay. The screens aren't working.
The ones in there work, but here don't. I check each one.
So, fingerprints are first up. Right thumb there, please.
No one fixes screens here.
If you ask them about fixing them,
they say they reported it and HQ will fix it.
They'd fix anything else immediately.
[beep]
Right. Four fingers.
-You gotta hold down firmly. -[beep]
And now the same with your left hand.
-My left thumb or my four fingers? -Start with your thumb.
-Don't move the machine. -I'm sorry.
[exhales]
Left. Four fingers.
I mean, why do we bother? We go out, smoke, come back.
Use a card every time…
Okay, you're good.
…to come in or out
It works. Give me your photo, please.
[man, muffled] I'll need your photo.
[in normal voice] Come on, we have a lot to do.
[Louis in French] Wow. First time I see you this lively.
Is that so?
Will you tell me why?
I've had to be this high to tell you.
-[laughs] -[Louis] Mm.
-Because… -Because…
Because I quit my job today.
[squeals and giggles]
Excuse me?
Are you not happy?
I don't know. I don't get it.
[shouting] I quit!
[laughs]
Wow.
So you've made your decision.
You've decided.
Louis.
I already have.
I don't know. Maybe…
we would be together…
or so I thought.
Louis. You knew from the start I would leave.
That was why I was studying French.
Weren't we thinking the same thing?
I'm not thinking of anything.
I mean, if you were so sure you've never thought the same way,
why did you get so close with me, I don't get it.
Are you blaming me?
No, I don't.
Just that…
Okay.
Mm. This is delicious.
What was your sign?
-Why? Why did you… -Will you tell me?
Scorpio. Why?
[exhales]
What? What?
I could change it.
[laughs]
I could change my sign.
I'm not a Scorpio. I'm a Virgo.
I'm a…
A Sagittarius, a Leo. I'm whatever you want.
-Just not a Scorpio. -Okay, enough.
[door opens]
[slams door]
[crying] I don't even have an identity.
Until I choose who I am, I won't have something that feels like me.
You need to do whatever feels right, Zehra, that's all.
-Do as you wish-- -Please, don't lecture me.
Just please, please don't lecture me.
[breathing heavily]
[Nesrin] All I'm trying to say is that I'm here for you.
I'm here and I'll be here.
-And we'll do whatever you want. -[cries]
-What do you want to do, Zehra? -It's beyond me, I'm lost.
I'm a mess, you know?
And I don't have a clue what I want.
I wish I knew. It would all be easier, so much easier.
Well, I've got some pretty big news to share.
I quit my job today.
Do you know how I did it?
With the power you gave me.
Because I'd been making up reasons.
Serdar, my mom, Diego, Emel.
I was using all of them as an excuse to stop myself.
I was just bewildered at how you say you don't know anything
but still, you dive headfirst whatever you want to accomplish.
You came up and tapped me on my back.
And said, "Go."
Told me I could go.
Do you really mean that?
Of course I do.
I've really been looking forward to celebrating this with you.
-Oh, I want some food. -[laughs]
I wanna eat, hear me? I am never full. Never ever.
[laugh]
[gasp]
-Oh. -[sobs]
-Okay. -[crying]
[sobbing]
[Nesrin] Oh, there's this one too.
Here.
Yes! Here it is.
What do you think?
[chuckles]
A wig? Mhm.
[Zehra] A long time ago, in a war,
The Greeks were angry that the Carians had sided with the Persians,
so they killed all of the Carian soldiers, and then they also took all the women.
Then they depicted these women in their grand traditional clothing,
and said they could "bear the weight of buildings."
That's what they said.
Of course, that was seen as the reason to make these women slaves for good.
That's where we get Caryatids.
Like those are actually symbols of those Carian women and their suffering,
if you want a fun fact.
How do you know so much? I mean, truly.
[both chuckle]
-You're gonna be an amazing architect. -You think so?
But I thought it was the French influence.
There was a period of modernization as a result of intense French influence,
with the buildings sharing stylistic affectations.
A bit like some kind of Parisian simulation.
Mm, Café de Luxembourg, Lebon, Markiz.
And through the efforts of a lot of non-Muslims in Pera,
they, well, maybe not comparable exactly to the urban structure of Paris,
built a really close likeness.
And the origin of the word "passage" is the French word "passer,"
-meaning "to pass." -Oh?
[laughs]
-How was that? -Excellent.
-You're very good too. -[both laugh]
-You're planning on France still, right? -Uh-huh.
Paris and Istanbul have a similar look.
If you go there, then would you have really done any traveling at all?
Pera's been the idea the whole time, yeah.
[laughs]
[Zehra] Yeah that's a great choice.
-[Nesrin] Oh, they're coming this way. -[Zehra] It's our turn.
[playing traditional music]
[singing "Fikrimin İnce Gülü"]
♪ Your eyes gazing into mine ♪
♪ The day I saw you ♪
♪ You set my heart on fire ♪
[laugh]
[player] Any requests, ma'am?
Anything you want to hear?
"Büklüm Büklüm," I suppose.
-You heard her. -Ah!
[playing "Büklüm Büklüm"]
♪ Whatever you say, whatever you expect ♪
♪ From the Creator or your fate ♪
♪ You can't have it your way ♪
♪ Unless you fight for it ♪
[laughs]
♪ It feels like it drowns you ♪
♪ It feels like being reborn ♪
♪ It feels like dying over and over ♪
♪ If you haven't suffered through That pain and ordeal ♪
♪ Winding round and round Your weary neck ♪
♪ Scattered through your fractured soul ♪
♪ With questioning eyes at your door ♪
♪ Your bitter memories remain ♪
[laughs]
-Bravo! -Thank you.
That was great.
Thank you, guys.
[laughs]
[Emel] Nesrin. [laughs]
-Emel. -[Emel] I can't believe it!
[laughs]
I'm shocked, though it's terrific.
So, we're here.
How come you didn't mention it to me?
It was spontaneous, that's all.
-[Emel] Hmm, was it? -It was.
[chuckle]
-Pleased to meet you. -[laughs]
-It looks great by the way. -[Zehra] Oh!
-Thank you, yeah. You're so beautiful too. -Thanks.
-I actually know you, by the way. I do. -[Emel] Oh?
I went to a bar with my friends, and I'm sure you were singing.
-You were really excellent. -[sarcastic] Ah!
Nesrin, look, I'm so popular.
[chuckle]
She's never come to see me.
Why don't you tell her how I did? [laugh]
Tell her about it.
[Zehra] Well, it was really good.
Listening to her was incredible. She has a great voice.
-I'm sure. -[Zehra] Yeah, yeah. Really great.
-Did you hear that? -Sure did.
-So good. -[Zehra] Yeah, so good.
[giggle]
How'd you meet? How do you know each other?
-She's my sister. -Oh?
[laughter]
Emel.
We look a bit similar.
[laughs]
You're identical, wow, that's so cool.
-[Emel] The same in every way. -[Zehra] Oh really?
Really. And you?
Who are you?
-I'm Zehra. -Oh!
Yeah. Nice to meet you.
Aylin's Zehra.
Oh?
The famous Zehra. I see.
-She's so cute. -[Zehra] Oh, thank you so much.
-Fantastic. -[laughter]
[sighs]
You know, you're lucky. Very much so.
-Oh? -[Emel] Yes.
[laughs]
Why's that?
Because my sister cares about you.
It's mutual, really.
[Emel] Ah.
Look, she brought you to a tavern.
[Emel sighs]
For me, she doesn't move a muscle.
[Emel chuckles]
[laugh]
-Enjoy it while it lasts, I'm telling you. -[laughter]
-[Emel] Oh, we laugh a lot, don't we? -I will.
[Zehra] We do, yeah.
Wonderful.
Give me some money, sis.
-You have enough, hun. -Give me some money.
She has a lot!
And she won't give me any.
Well the singers already got some from her, so…
Did you want some?
-[Zehra] Um, no. -My flesh and blood won't give it to me.
Come on, give me some money.
[laugh]
She's stingy with me, huh?
[Zehra] I guess.
She'd give you if you ask, but not me. What do you study?
-Architecture. -That's wonderful.
[Zehra] Yeah.
Finally. Had to work for it.
-Zehra. -[laughter]
Be right back, Nesrin. [laughs]
We got it. [laughs]
Psst.
-[Emel] Sorry for interrupting. -[player] What can I do for you?
"Boş Vermişim" in your repertoire?
-Sing it for me? -Sure.
Thank you. [laughs]
Everyone? Hi.
Attention please, for just one minute, attention please.
Uh, you see this woman sitting over here?
You've all got a good view? Yes? She's here.
She's my big sister, and she's a doctor.
She's such a good doctor.
I want to give her a gift, just a small token, if you'll excuse us.
Please.
Everyone sing along. Show some love, huh?
[cheer]
For Nesrin!
I'm asking you all to please, let everything go.
-Nesrin! -[Nesrin] Emel…
-Hoppa! -Hoppa!
[cheer]
[Nesrin] Emel. Enough.
[Emel] Come on, everybody sing!
♪ July, August, September ♪
♪ Smile through every season ♪
♪ Believe me, life is too short ♪
♪ Maybe we won't make it till summer ♪
♪ Believe me, life is too short ♪
♪ Maybe we won't make it till summer ♪
♪ I let it go ♪
♪ I let the world go ♪
♪ If you don't want to cry ♪
♪ Just let the world go ♪
♪ If you don't want to cry… ♪
-Make some noise, Zehra, you know it? -A little. I mean, I think I do, maybe?
[cheer]
Hey! Hey! Hey!
-Hoppa! -[kiss]
♪ Ahmet, Mehmet, Süreyya ♪
♪ Good for nothing, just a mirage ♪
♪ Life will end one day You'll realize it was a dream ♪
♪ I let it go ♪
♪ I let the world go ♪
♪ If you don't want to cry ♪
♪ Just let the world go ♪
♪ If you don't want to cry ♪
♪ Just let the world… ♪
-♪ I let it go ♪ -Get down, Emel!
-Bravo! -Why are you letting her do this?
I'll let go for a while! [screams]
[Nesrin] Emel, get down!
-[Emel] Bravo, you were perfect! -[Nesrin] Get down here!
-Get down, let's go. -[Emel] So good!
-[cheer] -You were great.
-Down! -Look at this, she trashed the place.
-Just sit down. I'm taking care of it. -Come down from there, Emel.
-I'm going! -[man] Take care of it. What is this?
Just relax.
-[man] Don't worry. -Down!
Please, I'm going, let go!
-Hey! Emel! -[scream]
[patron] Why is this nutcase in here?
-Enough, we're getting out of here. Emel. -Zehra.
-[Emel] Zehra, just let it go. -[Nesrin] Alright.
-What's it to you, man? -Relax.
[screams]
-[man] Get her out of here! -Hey, shut your mouth!
Hey, you hear me? I need you to relax now.
-[cries] -Calm down.
[moaning]
[Zehra] The letter G.
"Galata Dock shanties and taverns."
This is the city's labyrinth of shanty towns.
Fish guts stink to high heaven. A prayer.
Listen.
Their blood mixes with the raging seawater.
And it's a blessed reunion.
It's easy to ignore the stinking journeys down these sidewalks.
Funny.
Attention, attention.
The sidewalks of Galata are crooked.
You know those cunning, fierce young men who have a way about them
even when they're standing still?
These sidewalks seem to understand them.
Those criminal boys have hearts soft as velvet.
Pure silk, just feel it.
And that's why, even when they're suffering,
women don't fall down here.
Though they may get wet. We can't make any promises.
Through these rocks flow the city's waters,
mixed together with fish blood, a drunkard's vomit or piss,
a bully's spit, a poor child's snot.
And when they find a bit of rainwater,
♪ Row, row, row your boat Gently down the stream ♪
♪ Merrily, merrily, merrily, merrily… ♪
These sidewalks are sometimes a dirty thrill,
but there's also a sad innocence here.
For example, today, I was alone…
Sorry.
Without myself.
Or… I can't remember the word.
Without an identity.
Today, I existed as no one, as everyone.
Arm in arm with the world, but somehow alone.
Even then, I was too much.
Because this city is like shanties leaning on each other.
like friends turning on each other,
like strangers wandering, seeking to know themselves,
hand in hand.
[closing theme music playing]